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【POPUP STORE】INAZUMA FESTIVAL 2024 12/8sun 10:00-16:00 in ODAIBA

INTERVIEWS-CUTTER

INTERVIEWS-CUTTER

The voices of the producers who support A LEATHER. What are they thinking as they continue to protect their unique techniques for so many years in Japan's historic production sites, which are rapidly shrinking?
This time, we interviewed a cutter working at A LEATHER's production site to find out his thoughts.


Q. How many years have you been working as a cutter?
It's been 40 years.
I have also worked on cutting for world-famous Japanese brands.


Q. What kind of work does a cutter do?
The parts of the clothes are cut out using patterns created by the pattern maker and the leather finished by the tanner.
I usually work standing up for about 8 hours a day.
Since we cut the fabric by hand, we work at a pace that allows us to cut one piece per hour, which is enough for eight pieces per day, but if the design is dynamic like A LEATHER's it may take a little longer.



Q. What do you pay attention to when cutting by hand?
If my pace or rhythm is disrupted, it can lead to injury, so I try to find ways to stay focused while I work.
I cut paper while listening to my favorite jazz in my custom-made work space. When I'm concentrating, I sometimes don't even answer work-related calls (laughs).
And I spend a lot of time on the work before cutting.
I'd say 80% of the work is looking at the leather and the remaining 20% is cutting it.
We carefully select leather with individual differences,
Markings are also made to make it easier for the seamstress to sew.
We also take great care to ensure that the work after cutting goes smoothly.

I don't just think about the work, I also imagine what it will be like after it is made into a finished product.
We also pay attention to which parts of leather should be placed on which parts of the clothing to ensure a nice wearing experience and finished look.
Generally, I try to place the most beautiful leather around the chest area.
I also look at magazines to make sure I'm up to date on current trends.



Q: What is difficult about it?
Each piece of leather is different, and the finish of the leather changes depending on the season.
It is difficult to achieve the same finish regardless of the condition of the leather.


Q. What are the advantages of cutting by hand in an environment where mechanization is on the rise?
Each piece of leather is different in appearance and condition, so even if AI continues to advance in many areas, I don't think it will be easy to mechanize the cutting of leather.
Because the cutter can actually see, touch and judge each piece of leather, working by hand eliminates waste and allows more parts to be extracted from each piece.


Q: What do you value most in your work?
I think it's very important not only during the cutting process, but also to constantly consult with seamstresses and designers and be on the same page.
I think that imagining various things, sharing them, and working together to ensure that all processes proceed smoothly is very important in making a good product.


Q. How do you think apparel production will change in the future?
Change can be good or bad.
In the past, when special knives were used to cut leather, it was difficult to maintain their sharpness.
Now I mainly use a roll cutter and it has become very convenient.
While tools have become more convenient,
I don't think cutting leather by hand will change in the future.
Basically, what we do going forward will remain the same.
However, production sites are facing an aging population and a decrease in the number of craftsmen and factories.
I think the aging population will continue to increase in the future.



QA What are your expectations for LEATHER?
I hope to see an increase in the number of young professionals.
We hope that as A LEATHER becomes more successful, more young people will become interested in leather production and we will be able to train new craftsmen.