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INTERVIEW-TANNERY

INTERVIEW-TANNERY



The voices of the producers who support A LEATHER. What are they thinking as they continue to protect their unique techniques for so many years in Japan's historic production sites, which are rapidly shrinking?

This time, we interviewed the tanners who work at A LEATHER's leather tanners to find out their thoughts.


Q. How long has this tannery been in business?
It has been 60 years since we took over from our predecessors, and our factories and techniques have been passed down from generation to generation.
Now I have a little help from my family, but I do most of it on my own.

Q: Has anything changed since the old days?
Nothing has changed in the way we do things, the work process, or the equipment we use.

Q. How do you feel about things not changing from the past?
The temperature of the water used for work changes with seasonal temperature changes. Not only that, but the condition of the water also changes depending on the weather on that day and the days before and after, the surrounding environment, and the condition of the plants, so they can maintain quality by making fine adjustments based on the intuition born from years of experience.
This is something that cannot be measured with data or AI, even as technology advances.
Because leather itself is a material that changes, I don't think the analog element will disappear in the future.

Q. How long does it take to make leather?
We can make about 50 to 60 pieces a day.
For A LEATHER's big silhouette series, there is enough material to make about 20 pieces.
Generally, the process can be completed in one day, but it may take a little longer if the condition of the raw hides varies or the weather or season is not suitable for drying leather.
Cowhide is particularly large, so it is difficult to continue producing stable products.



Q. Are there any differences depending on the tanner?
Even if the same technique is used by a different tanner, the leather may not turn out the same due to differences in season, water temperature, and environment. In particular, overseas tanners have different water qualities, such as soft water and hard water, so the leather will not turn out the same. In fact, there have been cases in the past where experiments have failed.

Q. What do you pay attention to when working at the tannery?
Leather is tanned using chemicals, so it is possible to adjust the condition by using chemicals multiple times. However, our tannery places great importance on the finished state of wet blue (leather after tanning is complete before dyeing). Most of the leather used at A LEATHER is unfinished, and is characterized by its very supple feel. This is because how well the leather's original softness and suppleness are preserved at the wet blue stage makes a big difference when it is dyed.
Using too much chemicals can erase the leather's fine texture, so we place great importance on the finish in the tanning process so that we don't have to use too much chemicals in the final step.



Q. How do you think production sites will change in the future?
I don't think technology will change in the future.
From now on, production will continue to be done in a world where data cannot be collected, using analog methods and the sense of the craftsman based on experience. On the other hand, Japanese tanneries are facing a serious problem of successors. This is true for all production sites, but there is a concern that the number of tanneries will decrease along with the technology.



QA What do you expect from LEATHER?
I want to convey the greatness of Japanese technology to the world.
I hope that people will change their perception of leather and broaden their horizons.